I've always had a soft spot for the cl40 ford skid steer, mainly because it reminds me of a time when machines were built to be fixed with a basic wrench set and a little bit of patience. If you've ever spent time on a farm or a small job site, you know that modern equipment is great until a sensor goes haywire and the whole thing shuts down. You don't really have that problem with these old Ford units. They're gritty, they're loud, and they're surprisingly capable for their size.
Back in the 1970s and 80s, Ford dipped their toes into the skid steer market by partnering with Owatonna (which many of us know now as Mustang). The CL40 was essentially a Ford-badged version of a Mustang loader, painted in that iconic Ford blue. While Ford isn't the first name people think of when they talk about skid steers today—mostly because they exited the market decades ago—the CL40 remains a cult favorite for hobby farmers and DIYers who need a "mule" that doesn't cost sixty thousand dollars.
What Makes the CL40 Tick?
Under the hood of a cl40 ford skid steer, you're usually going to find one of two things: a Ford gas engine or, in some variations, a diesel. The 1.6-liter four-cylinder gas engine was a common staple. It's a simple, overhead-valve design that is remarkably easy to work on. If you can tune up an old tractor or a car from the 70s, you can keep a CL40 running.
The lifting capacity usually hovers around the 1,200 to 1,500-pound mark, depending on the specific year and how much counterweight you've got on the back. For a machine with such a compact footprint, that's actually pretty impressive. It's narrow enough to fit through gates that would stop a modern mid-size Bobcat in its tracks, which makes it a godsend for cleaning out old barns or navigating tight backyard landscaping projects.
One thing you'll notice immediately is the control setup. It's not the joystick-style "video game" controls you see in a brand-new Cat or Deere. Most of these old Fords used a system of hand levers or a T-bar setup. It takes a minute to get the muscle memory down, but once you do, it feels like an extension of your own arms. Just don't expect it to be a smooth ride—skid steers from this era are famous for being "jumpy" until you learn how to feather the controls.
The Reality of Operating a Vintage Machine
Operating a cl40 ford skid steer is a visceral experience. There isn't much in the way of sound dampening. You're going to hear every whine of the hydraulic pump and every revolution of the engine. It's loud, it's shaky, and you'll probably smell like exhaust at the end of the day. But there's a certain satisfaction in that. You feel the ground, you feel the load in the bucket, and you're much more "connected" to the work than you are in a climate-controlled cab with a radio.
Speaking of cabs, don't expect much. Most CL40s you'll find on the used market today are open ROPS (Roll-Over Protective Structure) units. If you're lucky, someone might have added a homemade roof or some plexiglass, but for the most part, you're out in the elements. In the middle of July, that's fine. In a Minnesota January? You might start questioning your life choices while you're trying to clear the driveway.
The wheelbase is quite short, which is great for maneuverability. You can spin this thing on a dime. However, the trade-off is stability. If you've got a full bucket of wet gravel and you're traveling over uneven ground, you'll definitely feel the "teeter-totter" effect. It teaches you to keep your loads low to the ground, which is a good habit to have anyway.
Maintenance and the "Old Machine" Tax
If you decide to pick up a cl40 ford skid steer, you have to be prepared for the fact that it's a vintage piece of equipment. Parts aren't as easy to find as they are for a modern machine, but they aren't impossible to track down either. Since these were essentially Mustang loaders, you can often find what you need by cross-referencing Mustang parts lists.
The hydraulic system is usually the first place people run into trouble. Old hoses get brittle and start to weep. If you buy one of these, do yourself a favor and just assume you'll be replacing a couple of lines right away. The drive chains are another thing to keep an eye on. They live in a bath of oil inside the side tanks, and if that oil hasn't been changed since the Reagan administration, you're looking at some unnecessary wear and tear.
One of the biggest hurdles is the attachment plate. Modern skid steers use a "Universal Quick Attach" system. The cl40 ford skid steer was built before that was a standardized thing. Depending on the specific unit, you might have a pin-on bucket or an early proprietary quick-attach. If you want to use modern forks or augers, you'll probably need to weld on a universal adapter plate. It's a common modification and well worth the effort.
Why Bother with a 40-Year-Old Loader?
You might be wondering why anyone would bother with a cl40 ford skid steer when there are so many newer machines available. It really comes down to two things: price and simplicity.
You can often find a running, working CL40 for a fraction of the price of a newer used machine. For a homeowner who just needs to move some dirt on the weekends or a small farmer who needs to toss a few hay bales, it's hard to justify spending $30,000. If you can get a Ford for a few thousand bucks and spend a weekend giving it a tune-up, you've got a tool that will save your back for years to come.
Then there's the lack of electronics. There is no ECU to fry, no DEF fluid to worry about, and no sensors that will put the machine into "limp mode" because of a loose wire. It's all mechanical. If it's getting fuel, air, and spark, it's going to run. For those of us who prefer to do our own mechanical work, that is a massive selling point.
What to Look for When Buying
If you're scouring the classifieds for a cl40 ford skid steer, there are a few red flags to watch out for. First, check the pivot pins. If the loader arms have a ton of "slop" or side-to-side play, it means the bushings are shot. It's fixable, but it's a greasy, heavy job.
Second, look at the color of the hydraulic fluid. It should be relatively clear or slightly amber. If it looks like a strawberry milkshake, there's water in the system. If it smells burnt, the pump or motors might be on their last legs.
Lastly, check the tires. Skid steer tires aren't cheap, and if all four are bald or dry-rotted, that's an extra $600 to $1,000 you'll be dropping immediately.
Final Thoughts
The cl40 ford skid steer isn't going to win any beauty contests, and it certainly won't out-perform a brand-new high-flow track loader. But it isn't trying to. It's a relic of an era when Ford was trying to be the "everything" company for farmers—tractors, trucks, and loaders.
It's a tough, honest little machine. If you treat it right, keep the grease fittings full, and don't try to lift more than it was ever meant to, it'll probably outlast most of the plastic-heavy machines being built today. There's something deeply satisfying about firing up that old Ford engine, hearing it roar to life, and getting to work. It's not just a tool; it's a piece of mechanical history that still earns its keep every single day.